Hobby Life : Adopt a good painting position.
Hello everyone !!
Sitting in the right position when painting is very important especially when you do long session ^^ Today I found this post of Facebook.
Disclaimer : Tom Taylor Bigg made this post on Eavier Metal Facebook Group to give advice on how to have better sitting position while painting. Images and Text are from him as well !!
I’m a massage and physical therapist – I work with people with back, neck and shoulder pain every day. I see quite a few people in the hobby talk about back pain and discomfort so I thought I’d try to give some pointers.
I would emphasise this isn’t exhaustive or even particularly comprehensive, so if you have pain try different approaches. See a professional! Other solutions could be standing desks and kneeling chairs.
I have had some training in posture, and have a lot of practical experience in troubleshooting people’s issue, but I’m not an ergonomic specialist so any feedback or things I’ve missed please do feel free to point them out and I will amend this document.
For sitting down in a way to minimize pain there is one key things to remember. A few slight adjustments can make a huge difference over time.
Sightline. Everything else follows from that. If your sightline is right your body tends to self organise better.
Most advice out there is about computer work position, so I’ve tried to adapt this advice for hobbying.
I’ve taken some pictures to illustrate.
At the computer. I’ve marked the key joints in red.
1. Sightline slightly downwards
2. Neck joint is above shoulders
3. Back straight and supported all the way up
4. Shoulders above hips
5. Elbows supported
6. Feet in front of knees
Picture 2. (How you shouldn’t do it!)
Hobby from the same seated position. Lamp is positioned in front of me. This is a bad posture.
1. Lightsource isn’t far enough forward
2. Sightline is very down
3. Neck is stressed, forward of shoulder
4. Back is curved, unsupported
5. Shoulders are forward of hip
I’ve adjusted my chair so that when I am holding the mini with supported elbows my head is much more level with it, so the sightline is better. I’ve moved my chair height down significantly and made sure lamp is positioned much further towards me.
1. As light is above me I don’t have to lean forward
2. Sightline is slightly downwards
3. Neck joint is in decent position
4. Back is straight and supported
5. Feet in front of knees
The original post is here : https://www.facebook.com/groups/eaviermetal/permalink/2810228399041353/
Thanks a lot Mr Bigg !!
Spoiler alert: I am painting in an even worse position than the 2. To give you an idea my Wrist are on the edge of my desk ^^ it's bad i know :(
Painting Tutorial : Quick Non Metallic Metal with Contrast Paint
Hello everyone !!
Since the Contrast Paints have been released I have been trying a lot different ways to paint weapons. Also, these days pro painters make NMM with a very dark flat section of the blade and a white part on the edge. As i am painting an IronJaws army, i wanted to have this style of Nmm on my weapons. Off course as i plan to have two max units of Black Orcs i needed a time efficient way of painting weapons.
I just want to share the steps before showing details just so you know where this is going.
The method is quite easy and I made some photos to show what I did on the weapon.
Simply primed the weapon in white with my airbrush and some white Stynylrez. Don't forget that if your priming is not very thin/flat the contrast paint is not going to flow well and make bad streak. In this scenario just apply a thin coat of Gloss Varnish to help the contrast paint to flow better.
One thin coat of undiluted Contrast Space Wolves Grey. Just avoid too much pooling but it's super easy to do.
Highlights the edge of the blade (on the right of the dark line) with Fenrisian Grey. I use an Airbrush because it's faster but it's 100% doable with a brush ^^ On this blade I Highlight the white circle and in the direction of the arrows, knowing that my brightest spot is going to be there. Don't make an opaque coat, try to keep some of the color showing under to make it more interesting.
First Highlight of the blade edge.
More highlight including more and more white.
Final Highlight (i notice that i forgot to highlight the circle)
Then I am going to shade the flat section of the blade (left of the white line). Shading using Abyssal Blue from scale 75 in the direction of the white arrow.
Alternate paints option: Dark Reaper GW, Dark sea blue from Vallejo, coal-black from P3. All are dark blue with a tint of green.
Both side of the blade once shaded.
Here do an edge Highlight with pure white and draw a line between the edge and flat section. You can use pure white or add a little bit of blue. Depend on what you prefer. You can also mark the scratch with some pure light dot.
That's it for this short tutorial on how to make a quick NMM. It's really easy and looks quite good on the board. Off course if you want to up your game you can add red or brown on the flat and blood for the blood god marks. I'll do it tomorrow and update the post.
Airbrush : Iwata (0.3) and h&s evolution (0.5)
Brush : Redgrassgames (both of them)
Primer : Stynylrez
Redgrassgames Black Friday Offer !
Hello everyone !!
Redgrassgames is making Discount for Black Friday. So if you want to order something from them it's the right time.
Also I think they do Free Shipping on Friday.
ps : This is not an affiliate thing and we don't get any % of what is bought. But their brushes are my favourite (the palette too)
The Everchosen is Yohan Leduc, congratulation
Hello everyone !!
Everchosen have been crowned today.
The sun has set on the Citadel Colour Open Day, and we’re proud to announce that Yohan Leduc has been crowned the champion of Everchosen, our global painting competition!
Check his Fb for more pics, https://www.facebook.com/yohan.leduc/photos
He's a fine painter for sure ;)
Painting Ossiarch Bonereapers with Contrast paints
Hello everyone !!!
Following my post about the Mortek Guard models, I wanted to share a simple painting process for the Ossiarch.
Models are painted without the shield, it's 10 times easier and doesn't take much more time. So I glue the body (it's easy, it's only 2 parts) then the head and the weapon arm. Next, I glue it on a base and place it on a GW handle. lastly I glue the shield to paper clip inserted into a wine/champagne cap.
I use an airbrush but you can do it with a brush or a spray can, but it's easier with an AB (you can use a very cheap one from amazon if you only want to do zenithal)
-Start by priming the whole model with light grey (i mix stynylrez grey and white 35/65)
-Do a Zenithal from the top and side with pure white.
-Then spray a thin coat of Gloss varnish, this step is optional but the Contrast paint flows a lot better with it, staining a lot less flat surface. So maybe you can avoid it on small skeletons like Ossiarch Mortek guards but if you plan to paint Space Marines with this method, always do a thin coat of gloss varnish to help the paint flow!
At the end you should have something close to this !
To be honest the previous step is 50% of the work all that left is applying contrast and then do some highlight.
Start with bones
-One coat of Squelleton Hordes contrast paint. Be neat plz and use a small brush on details and zone limit. I use a size 1 or 2 for the large area but I don't hesitate to bring a 2/0 for all the small zone like the hands, blade guard, top of the shield, helmet ...Contrast paints are super fast to use but you are going to lose a lot of time if you have to correct a lot of blunders.
ps: To correct a mistake with contrast, wait for the paint to dry then apply white and use contrast on it.
-Highlight the bones with an Off white, any off white is fine I used Mojave white from Scale 75 this time but Ushapti bones(gw) Jack bones from P3 would work too.
End result :
Armor and sword
-One coat of Space Wolves Grey from the contrast line, again use a small brush to avoid or at least limit mistakes ^^ (i used a 2/0 here).
-Highlight with pure white by doing a lining or some thin glazes.
-Pre Highlight with white on the part you want the most light red.
-Paint one thick coat of Contrast Blood Angels Red.
-Then Highlight the zone with white again
-Paint one thin coat of red (not contrast). Any intense red would work. But if you have some GW blood angel red it's even better.
If you want to spend a little more time you can add some shadow/highlight to increase the contrast a bit more (the light shadow value not the paint ^^).
-Add shadow with a dark blue/green, I use scale Abyssal blue, but Iron Coal from P3 is good too.
-Add highlight with a sky blue + white this time I used Bering blue by scale 75
It's not a big difference in the image but it makes the job IRL.
(obviously, i did it on the left Hecatos and not on the right Trooper)
Really easy and fast way to get decent models on the table. I prefer to go for stark highlight as it looks better on the battlefield.
Better to paint a small batch of models instead of one by one. Don't go crazy of the batch size as it can transform painting in a Chore :/ On the other hand, I usually do the priming in one big go as it's easy and relaxing to do.
Options : You can swap Space Wolves grey with basillicanum grey, red with green, purple or blue. You could even do the bones with another colour completely.
Hope you like it !
Ossiarch Bonereapers Navigation :
Next Week on pre orders !
Hello everyone !!!
Next week on pre orders are ALL OF Ossiarche Bonereapers units and heroes !! This is maybe the biggest army release ever !
As well : Red mini holder, Pot holder, Citadel Spray stick, White Dwarf Apocrypha, Dark Millennium Playing cards with John Blanche arts ! (Auto buy !)
With Christmas on the horizon, we’re happy to reveal two massive boxed sets absolutely packed to the gills with Dominion of Sigmar terrain, each easily containing enough scenery to transform even the most barren tabletop into a thematic battlefield. The Hallowed Stormthrone set contains a new frame, currently only found in this box, that allows you to build a rune-engraved throne. Meanwhile, the Penumbral Stormvault comes with a Penumbral Engine, previously only available in Forbidden Power, making it a great way to get your hands on one of these invaluable bits of battlefield scenery.
The Citadel Spray stick is very nice, still, i wonder how long the rubber will last if you are spraying with Primers.
Grew up with Blanche arts it's auto buy for me !
That's a very costly week coming ^^
Atia paints - Black Legion
Howdy Guys and Girls :)
Just want to share my latest finished models - hope you like them!
The Black Legion
Born as the XVIth Space Marine Legion on Terra, the Black Legion would first rise to greatness under the name of the Luna Wolves. Before the dark days of the Horus Heresy they fought at the Emperor's side on Terra and through the early years of the Great Crusade. They were as stalwart and indefatigable as any of the servants of the Emperor and their actions exemplified what it meant to be a warrior of the Space Marine Legions. Brutal, ruthless and unwavering but also honourable, and once loyal beyond question, the history of the Black Legion is the history of the ambition of the Imperium itself, and the flaws that broke its founder's dreams of unification and glory for all Mankind asunder.
The Black Legion is now one of the Traitor Legions of Chaos Space Marines who are united in the pursuit of the single purpose of overthrowing the Imperium. They oppose the infighting that consumes so many of their brethren amongst the other Traitor Legions, for the Astartes of the Black Legion are the greatest servants of Chaos Undivided. They are always brought together in great numbers to work the will of their Warmaster of Chaos, Abaddon the Despoiler, the heir of Horus. Whenever the entirety of the Black Legion is called to battle, it marks the beginning of another one of Abaddon's Black Crusades against the Imperium of Man.
Atia paints - Abaddon the Despoiler
Howdy Guys and Girls :)
Just want to share my recently finished Abaddon - hope you like!
Contrast Paints Colour Chart
Hello everyone !!
Here a Contrast Paint chart on 4 different prime for all the Contrast Paints colors. This was made by the awesome : James Martin
You can find the Original post here : https://imgur.com/user/jamesarmartin
I also saved the images on Imgur in case the post was removed : https://imgur.com/a/GZOOIaK
ps : saving the post under the tag: contrast paints chart
Citadel Colour: The App
Hello everyone !!!
Preceding the official release of the Contrast Paints, games workshop did a major update on the Citadel Colour Application.
Available on IOS and Android, this app has been designed to help painters with every aspect of the painting process. Users are able to paint by colour or by miniature, with detailed recipes that are easy to follow. There’s a feature to help users manage your projects and record the paints that they have used (a valuable tool for any army painter), and an introduction to the Citadel Colour System that will help new painters understand how to bring their armies to life.
Alongside this, there are basing guides, advanced guides, and a healthy dose of Duncan too - there are plenty of informative videos to enjoy and learn from. You can find out even more about it right here.
Citadel Colour is really a new naming that Games Workshop is pushing. I checked the New App on my phone and i have to admit that the content is rich, with lot of info on the Citadel Colour method, Battle & Parade ready concept, Contrast Paints and so. And it's 100% Free (for once ^^)